I was at the Foodies Festival in Edinburgh and was lucky enough to see Iain Spink smoking his haddock on site. The process itself is pretty simple: the fish have their heads removed and are gutted and cleaned, before being tied in pairs and hung over a stick.
Next, the stick itself is placed over a half barrel, with a fire of beech and oak burning inside it.
Then the barrel is covered with a few layers of damp hessian.
After half an hour or so, the Arbroath smokies are ready.
Arbroath smokies keep for a while, and perhaps the most famous dish in which they feature is Cullen skink. They are also good in a potato salado. However, the best way to serve them is definitely hot from the barrel.